Journal

There is more to a beach than the beach.

Field notes, local histories, and small discoveries from the shore—stories to read slowly, and places to understand before you go.

Journal

Latest stories

Place

Two shores, two answers

Los Cabos

At Land’s End, a short walk separates a generally sheltered swimming beach from the open Pacific. Cabo’s clearest coastal lesson is written in the angle of the sand—and revised by every swell.

Still water on the Palmetto Dunes lagoon, with pines, docks, and a bridge in the distance

Place

The 11-mile lagoon

Hilton Head Island

At Palmetto Dunes, engineers excavated one landscape to save another. Half a century later, the quiet water behind the dunes is still working.

Junior player on the 18th at Harbour Town Golf Links, looking through a rangefinder toward the green, with Daufuskie Island beyond

Ritual

How the Heritage took the island

Hilton Head Island

In 1969, Charles Fraser staged a golf tournament beside an unfinished lighthouse. Arnold Palmer gave it a headline. Hilton Head gave it permanence.

Place

The postcard is not the swim

Santa Monica–Venice

Above the water, Santa Monica built an icon. Beneath it, a century of engineering has yet to solve a persistent bacterial mystery.

glowing seahorse and sea turtle lanterns at night during Hilton Head’s 2024 Lantern Parade

Ritual

The 5 a.m. walk

Hilton Head Island

The poles are in the sand before breakfast. The walk that put them there is not yours.

Nature

The mountains under your feet

Siesta Key

Siesta Beach’s powder began as Appalachian rock. That geology is why the sand stays cool, why it squeaks, and why the rankings keep coming back.

People

The stones Waikīkī walked on

Waikīkī

Four pōhaku at Kūhiō Beach hold a healer story the English signs flattened — until the City finally said māhū.

Oddities

The Tybee Bomb

Tybee Island

On Tybee the object in Wassaw Sound is theirs. A Mark 15 went into the water in 1958 and never came back up.

Nature

The lot the storm took

Outer Cape

You come to the Outer Cape for this beach. What you find is a decision the storm already made — the lot gone, Beston’s house gone, and a shuttle in their place.

Place

The hinge

Gulf Shores / Orange Beach

You pick Gulf Shores or Orange Beach as if those were two beaches. What you hit is the park between them, older than both cities, and a pier that is not a swim.

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Place

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In brief

Notes from the sand

Short notes before you walk out.

Hilton Head Island

Forest trails, not beach horses

The public ride is Lawton Stables, inside gated Sea Pines: a walk-only western trail through the Forest Preserve. Town code forbids riding horses on Hilton Head beaches, except an annual marsh tacky race. Trail rides are ages 8 and up, reservations required. Casual visitors still pay the Sea Pines daily gate.

Hilton Head guide →

Siesta Key

Snorkel ledges at Point of Rocks

Point of Rocks is the island’s shore snorkel, at the south end of Crescent Beach. When the Gulf is calm and clear, the ledges hold fish. There are no restrooms, concessions, or lifeguards. Access 12 has a small lot. Access 13 is pedestrian-only. Facilities stay at Siesta Beach Park; Point of Rocks is the ledge snorkel.

Siesta Key guide →

Waikīkī

The Ala Wai is drainage

The Ala Wai Canal takes Mānoa and Palolo runoff and empties at the west end of Waikīkī. After heavy rain, stay out of brown or murky water for at least 72 hours, even if no advisory is posted. The Hilton lagoon can look like a pool and still hold bacteria. Queen’s and Kaimana, farther east, usually clear sooner.

Waikīkī guide →